30 April, 2009

A Walk Around Tsukiji

So, today we're going for a walk around Tsukiji, Tokyo's fishmarket, the largest fishmarket in the world, where 1/3 of the worlds fish is sold, and other impressive statistics as well. Being important to Tokyo, the market is a brief walk from Ginza, which in Europe would be like having a giant poultry market outside Hyde park.

Its quite easy to find. Just look for a giant fish.


Alternatively, you can follow the signs.


  The symbol here represents the fishermen carting around enourmous fish on electric-powered carts. But that is during the morning. I once turned up with a camera at 6:20am to see it. It essentially involves lots of men in waterproofs selling fish, cutting fish, weighing fish, or washing down a huge low-ceilinged expanse of stalls.


  This time, however, we are going for the lunch session. But, before we go, lets stop at one of the ubiquitous Conbini (convenience stores) to fortify with a hot can of coffee. Despite the mildly Jinglish feel of this message, it is, actually, a fairly accurate description of how you feel drinking the can of coffee.


  So, near the entrance to the market area, you can find a number of posters encouraging you to come to Tsukiji market. Even though you're already there.



  This guy is saying "Tsukiji on Saturdays is INTERESTING". This tells me that none of the locals care to turn up to Tsukiji on a Saturday.


This lady advises to keep an eye out for shops in the market bearing this sign. This is because Tsukiji is celebrating its 350th birthday. Unfortunately, the shops with this sign are not neccessarily the ones that are 350 years old, just ones that are selling products related to the anniversary celebration.

Whereas this good-luck welcoming cat is holding a sign saying "full-power business". You can visit his website here, and click on the links to see photos of the market and here you can see old school photos of Tsukiji, including one when it used to be in Nihon Bashi ("Japan Bridge", now the site of the Bank of Japan), prior to the Great Kanto Earthquake, 1923.

Now, if you want to get the best value Magurodon (raw tuna on top of a bowl of rice) - 500Y ($5) is a bargain, but at lunchtime you have to contend with this.

Now, if you're in a hurry, Onigiri can work, but we're here to find a bowl of raw tuna.

Now, we could sit down in the smallest restaurant known to mankind,

or we could go somewhere upmarket,

but lets take a walkt around, in order to find the perfect place. OK, while we're at it, how about some authentic Tsukiji fisherman rubber boots. Only $21.

Or a christmas tree with dish scrubbers hanging off it?

Now, since we are here, we do need to check out the fish. Just look at that. Isn't it beautiful?

These massive prawns look good enough to eat already. Imagine how tasty they are cooked!

Live seaslugs?

Or some huge crabs. $17 each.

If you're looking for affordability, look no further than here. Y500 ($5) buys a whole load of fish eyes. Useful for making miso.

But what's this?

Just a range of stuffed animals at the dried fish shop.

And there is the polar bear.

The other good news, is that if you want some dried fish products, you can buy them in a golden Hello Kitty figurine.

Now we're getting closer to the goal. Lots of salarymen eating outside.

But we're heading inside the market.

These stall owners really work very hard.

and a lot of them are advanced in their years

this guy has the name of the shop wrapped around his head. Serious attitude.

Now, this place looks just right. Not too shabby, but still "street" enough.

the owner is focused and hard-working. And there is a giant bottle on the counter. All good signs.

As soon as I sit down, I know I've struck gold. NHK has been filming here. And they only do the top-level best stuff.

Here we are. Y700 ($7). Bargain.

Mission accomplished.

And this experience somewhat reminds me of the market.

Its important to have patience.

But be ready to pounce when the time is right.

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